Mamallapuram
58 kms from Chennai
In the 7th century by the Pallava King, Narasimha varman I, also
known as Mamalla, " Great Wrestler", this spectacular
site, situated on the Bay of Bengal, extends across a boulder
strewn landscape and comprise rock cur caves and monolithic shrines
structural temples and huge bas-reliefs that are considered the
greatest examples of Pallava art. The stone-carving tradition
that created these wonders is still alive in the many workshops
scattered around the village.
The Spectacular Shore Temple, perched dramatically on a promontory
by the sea, has survived the ravages of time and erosion. It was
built by mamalla for vishnu, while the two shiva shrines were
added by Mamalla's Successor Narashima Varman II. The Temple has
a low boundary wall, with rows of seated nandis surrounding it.
Placed inside are a reclining Vishnu a 16- Faceted polished linga
and reliefs of somaskanda composite form of shiva with his consort
parvati and sons Skanda and Ganesha.
From the shore temple in the Village Centre is the celebrated
bas-relief Bhagiratha's Penance, also known an Arjuna's Penance
or the Descent of the Ganges the panel depicts in great detail
the story of the sacred river's decent from the sky. This divine
act, made possible by the penance of the sage Bhagiratha, is witnessed
on the panel by celestial and semi-celestial beings ascetics and
animals. The sysmbolism is best understood during the monsoon,
when rainwater flows down the cleft and collects in the tank below.
Nearby are the unfinished Panch Pandava Cave Temple and Krishna's
Butter Ball, a natural boulder perched precariously on a slope.
South of Bhagiratha's penance is the Krishna mandapa, a huge bas-relief
showing the god lifting Mount Govardhan to protect the people
from torrential rains as well as performing his tasks as a cowherd.
The Olakkanantha Temple above the mandapa was once used as a lighthouse.
On the ridge southwest of Bhagiratha's penance are three cave
temples. the Mahishasuramardini cave Temple has a graceful portrayal
of Goddess Durga on her lion mount, subduing the buffalo-headed
demon mahisha, on the northern wall. This panel seems to emanate
life and motion, in contrast to one on the southern wall, where
Vishnu reclines in deep meditation before creating the earth.
Nearby the Adivaraha Cave Temple has interesting panels of Pallava
rulers with their consorts. The Lion Throne on top of a hill further
west, is a raised platform with a seated lion, discovered near
the piles of brick rubble thought to remain of the palace of the
pallavas. The Trimurti Cave Temple northwest of Bhagiratha's Penance
is dedicated to three god's - shiva, Vishnu Somaskanda. The Shrines
are guarded by statues of graceful door keepers. A sculpture of
Durga standing on Mahisha's head is on an outer wall. To its south
the Varaha Cave Temple has beautifully moulded lion pillars while
the relief sculptures of Lakshmi, Durga and Varaha the boar incarnation
of Vishnu are among the masterpieces of Pallava art. The two-storeyed
rectangular Ganesha Ratha further south is attributed to Parameshvara
varman I (669-90). The temple, originally dedicated to Shiva has
beautifully carved inscriptions listing the royal titles of parameshvara
varman. A small Archaeological Museum with sculptures and fragments
excavated from the site, lies to its east.
Archaeological
Museum
The Tiger's cave 4kms north is a shallow cave framed by a large
boulder, with heads of (Mythical leonine beasts). It was probably
a stage for outdoor performances. The vedagirisvara temple dedicated
to shiva at the top of a hill in the village of Thirukkazhukunram
17 kms west is famous for the two eagles that swoop down at noon
to be fed by the temple priests. According to legend these birds
are saints who fly from varanasi varam, stopping here to rest.
